Concrete Slab Cracks – Don’t Go Crackers

Posted on June 29, 2009 by [email protected]

Concrete Slab Cracks – Don’t Go Crackers
By Bruce A. Barker

People believe that cracks in concrete slabs, such as basement floors and driveways, are construction defects. It is wisely written that there are two types of concrete slabs: those that are already cracked and those that going to crack. Armed with this bit of wisdom, you can develop realistic expectations about slab cracks. The following discussion deals primarily with new home construction; however, if you use good judgment, this information applies to slabs found in most homes and light commercial buildings.

Experts will tell you that slabs may not crack if you follow proper procedures. Proper procedures include: preparing and compacting the supporting material under the slab, using the correct concrete mix, delivering the mix promptly to the job site, prompt and professional laying and finishing at the job site, and curing at the correct temperature and moisture. If even one of these procedures is not followed to near perfection, slab cracks can result.

It is reasonable to spend the time and money required to lay concrete by the book in commercial construction (with large budgets). In residential construction, one must balance the cost required to follow proper procedures against the benefit of having crack-free slabs. Because most slab cracks are cosmetic, the cost often exceeds the benefit; thus, it’s common and reasonable to see minor cracks in residential slabs.

One usually asks three questions when evaluating cracks in residential concrete slabs:

  1. where is the crack?
  2. how big is the crack, both vertically and horizontally?
  3. how active is the crack?

Answers to these questions will help determine how to deal with the crack.

Crack location is important because different locations have different intended uses. Cracks in areas intended for vinyl, tile, or wood floor coverings might adversely affect the cosmetic and functional performance of these materials. Vinyl can reveal very small cracks. Cracks with vertical displacement can cause cracks in tile and grout and squeaks in wood floors. Cracks that run through stem walls and footings can be more serious than other cracks because cracks in structural components may adversely affect structural integrity.

Size matters when evaluating concrete cracks. The National Association of Home Builders (NAHB) standard for cracks in interior slabs requires repairing cracks exceeding 3/16 inch wide, or high (vertical displacement). State regulators may have different standards. Smaller cracks may be patched, but this is usually not a good solution because the patch may be more noticeable than the original crack and because the patching material may crack or become dislodged. It is often best to leave hairline cracks alone.

Cracks with vertical displacement in driveways, walkways, and patios can create a trip hazard. Generally accepted rules for these cracks in older construction are less clear. Displacement of 1/4 inch or more can present a trip hazard, but some inspectors will not call out a crack under ½ inch displacement, particularly in older homes. Extra care should be taken if children or those with reduced mobility regularly use concrete slabs with greater than ¼ inch vertical displacement.

Evidence of continuing crack activity is the most difficult question to answer and can have the greatest impact on how best to deal with a crack. Evaluating continuing activity is a matter of judgment and experience. For example, cracks where prior repairs have been attempted can be a sign of continuing activity. It can also be a sign of a poor repair job or the normal aging of the repair material. Crack monitoring devices exist, but they often are not practical on slab cracks and they usually require monitoring over a long period of time.

You should not be concerned about cracks in most residential concrete slabs. Wide cracks and those with vertical displacement should be brought to the attention of a qualified professional for evaluation and recommendation

Construction defects and mistakes put your family’s health and safety at risk and cost you money. Everybody’s Building Code helps you avoid construction defects and mistakes, whether you do the work yourself or hire a contractor. Everybody’s Building Code explains the International Residential Code in plain language and illustrates it with numerous drawings and pictures. Learn more about doing the job right the first time at http://EverybodysBuildingCode.com

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Concrete Crack Repair – Epoxy Injection

Posted on June 29, 2009 by [email protected]

Concrete Crack Repair – Epoxy Injection
By Aaron Kuertz

Concrete foundations can develop cracks over time. These cracks can then let in water and damage the interior contents of the basement. In severe cases, cracks in a concrete basement wall can signify that there is a structural defect with the wall. Whether it is to stop water or to structurally reinforce the concrete crack, epoxies can be injected into it.

Causes of Concrete Cracks

The most common is that the concrete actually shrinks as it cures. This curing process reduces the amount of water in the concrete and it shrinks in volume. This shrinkage causes stresses to occur and to relieve this stress, the concrete cracks. This is a normal process and it is not to be a cause of concern. However, they can still let in water and damage the interior contents of a basement. Shrinkage cracks usually are less than 1/16″ in width and remain a constant width throughout the life of a foundation.

A more serious concern is when the concrete has been structurally damaged. This could be occurring for a number of reasons. One of which is that the house is settling into the ground. Or the house may be sliding down a hillside. A very common reason, especially in older homes is the lateral force exerted by the soil onto the foundation. This will be evident by a bowing in of the concrete wall.

How to Determine if a Crack is Structural

There are a few easy ways to determine if a concrete crack is the result of a structural compromise in the foundation.

  1. The crack runs on a severe diagonal
  2. Horizontal cracks in a foundation wall indicate a serious problem
  3. Crack widths that increase over time.
  4. Cracks with widths in excess of 3/4″

If you are not sure or are concerned, you should contact a professional to determine if the crack is structural in nature and how to fix it.

Epoxy Injection

Whether it is a shrinkage crack or a structural crack, epoxies can be injected to make the repair. Epoxy injection is done from the interior of the basement, so no excavation on the outside needs to be done. The epoxies hardened in the crack and reinforce the concrete. They will fill the crack entirely from the bottom to the top and from front to back. In many cases, the epoxies are stronger than the concrete itself. The concrete crack will no longer be able to allow water to enter the basement.

This article is written by Aaron Kuertz with Applied Technologies. Aaron has been in the waterproofing industry since 1998. Applied Technologies is a manufacturer and supplier to professional waterproofing contractors and homeowners in the United States. To learn more about epoxy concrete crack repair visit Applied Technologies on the web.

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Concrete Foundation Repair: Point of View

Posted on June 27, 2009 by [email protected]

Concrete Foundation Repair

By Ken Marlborough

Concrete foundations are of two types – poured concrete and concrete block. Poured concrete is a modern manner of laying foundations, while concrete blocks are more traditional. Concrete blocks are preferred for their visual appeal and strength. Yet, as time passes, there may be degradation of concrete.

The prime cause of cracks in concrete foundation is seepage of water. Such cracks caused due to leakage of water are thin and hairline. They may widen over time, but they are present only in those areas where the seepage occurs. In order to repair leakage cracks, it is necessary first to investigate the source and the point from which the leakage originates.

There may be other reasons for concrete foundations to crumble. Soil may lose its moisture content in summer. There may be underground roots which may wither and die. Such natural causes make the soil shrink and hence the foundation may move. Though this movement is gradual, overtime it will cause cracks to occur. These cracks will be large gaping ones, running across the entire length of the foundation. They may even be in the form of tiny holes in certain places.

Whatever be the reason, cracks in the foundation are very perilous if ignored. Repair must be done as soon as possible. Difficulties involved in the repair process are influenced by how big the cracks are.

For tiny moisture created cracks, the repair is relatively simple and can be done by almost anyone. These cracks must first be brushed clean with a wire brush. A jet of water may be passed to remove any loose concrete particles within the crack. The crack is then allowed to dry completely and filled with concrete caulk. If the crack is large, then it is packed with patching materials that are specifically available for concrete. These patching materials must be wet when applied. They are limestone based, and they expand as they dry, filling up the crack completely. The finishing touch is to apply a sealant to the repaired crack.

But if the crack is sinister and not the do-it-yourself kind, then it is most prudent to shell out a few dollars and hire some good repairmen. Such cracks occur due to rods which may have rusted inside and snapped or because of deterioration of the materials present within the concrete. Some leakage cracks when ignored can also reach dangerous levels. Such cracks are more found in poured concrete.

Contractors treat the concrete foundation with urethane injections to extract the embedded water. They may even excavate the area around the foundation and replace the faulty tile or construct a provision for the water to lose contact with the foundation.

Foundation Repairs provides detailed information about foundation repair, do-it-yourself foundation repair, foundation leak repair, and more. Foundation Repairs is affiliated with Roof Shingles.

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Is Your Foundation Failing?

Posted on June 27, 2009 by [email protected]

Is Your Foundation Failing?

By Jeff Tully

Foundation movement may result from a wide range of factors, which can include:

• Shrinking or swelling of clays caused by changes in moisture content
• Compression of a soft layer in the ground as a result of the applied foundation loads
• Soil softening
• Frost heave
• Improper back filling
• Variation in groundwater levels
• Erosion
• Vibration from nearby construction
• Hydrostatic Pressure

Inadequate design of basement walls and footings, before construction, traditionally account for 75 to 85 percent of all problems in residential structures built upon expansive clay soils. These failures are generally divided between two broad classes – lateral pressure and differential settlement. Both classes of failure generally have few primary causative factors.

Lateral pressures on basement walls have four likely sources:
• Pressure from soil weight
• Pressure from soil swell
• Hydrostatic pressure
• Pressure from frost

Identifying lateral pressure damage is not difficult, but accurately quantifying the contributing sources is very difficult and should only be handled by a qualified engineer. The inward bowing of a basement wall is the simplest indication of lateral pressure. The bowing generally occurs when the external forces exceed the wall strength. The maximum bowing will often occur near the center of the wall because the adjoining perpendicular walls provide support in the corners. If bowing becomes severe, these walls can collapse inward.

Cracking can also occur when lateral pressure exceeds the strength of the concrete or block wall. The most common crack pattern begins in the corners and move up or down at 45 degree angles in concrete walls. For block walls, the cracks move along the mortar joints in a stair step pattern. Often these cracks end at a long horizontal fracture that parallels the basement floor.

Lateral pressure can affect the overall integrity of a house. Severe damage results in a visible opening between the top of the basement wall and the structure. Since water is one of the main causes of these cracks, water infiltration becomes significant in the largest of the cracks. Filling these cracks with epoxy, without solving the water problem, only moves the lateral pressure to another section of the wall.

The difference of the outside ground level and the basement floor creates a mass of soil that must be retained thus causing a lateral pressure. The pressure of soil weight is typically considered during the design of an engineered wall using theoretical earth pressures.

Clay soils undergo a change in volume when the moisture content of the soil changes. When expansive clays are placed against basement walls, the swelling of these soils can induce lateral pressures not accounted for in the original design. Cyclic shrink/swell can also reduce the shear strength of the backfill and thus increase the lateral pressures . The solution to this problem can be as easy as replacing clay backfill with gravel or other non-swelling material. When used in conjunction with a footing drain, gravel will prevent increased lateral pressure.

Hydrostatic pressure is pressure exerted by a fluid due to its weight. Hydrostatic pressure against a basement wall develops when water fills voids or “ponds” within backfill immediately adjacent to the wall. This water buildup can cause dripping, seepage, dampness or efflorescence (salt residual). Leakage during heavy rains or poorly designed/maintained drainage increase hydrostatic pressure. Like soil swell, hydrostatic pressure is not typically considered during design and construction of basement walls.

Water that accumulates in backfill and then freezes may cause large lateral pressures on basement walls. Severe damage can result from frost causing lateral pressures much greater than even hydrostatic pressure. The expansive natures of water crystals have been know to create catastrophic structural damage.

Backfill, that is heavily clay laden, present long term lateral soil pressure problems. Their cohesive nature makes it practically impossible to re-compact them to a uniform moisture content and density. Clay backfills require significantly stronger basement walls to withstand the larger horizontal pressures. The obvious solution is to backfill with non-cohesive aggregate with proper drainage.

Structural settlement is characterized as either total and /or differential settlement. Total settlement is a complete structure downward movement. Differential settlement is the difference in vertical movement between various locations causing structure distortion. Generally, total settlement is not a critical factor as long as it is uniform. Utility connections are affected to the greatest degree by total settlement. Even relatively small differential settlements can cause cracks in floor slabs, brick walls and drywall.

Settlement can be tolerated in most homes provided it is within specified limits. Small amounts of settlements are anticipated in most design work. When homes experience excessive settlement special procedures must be employed to stop or limit the amount of settlement. These special procedures usually employ the use of resistance piers or helical anchors. To determine the best course of action for your home the hiring of a foundation engineer is recommended. Do you have a potential foundation failure?

About the Author:

Jeff Tully invites you to view his website http://www.myfoundationrepairs.com if you are having any foundation issues including bowing walls, cracks in your foundation or any type of settlement issue. On this website you will find the truth about foundation repair methods and what you should expect. There are many misconceptions about foundation piers or tie backs, get the straight answers here.

This site was designed and built with the homeowner in mind is the only true source for foundation repair and waterproofing information. From determining if you really have a structural issue to hiring an engineer or foundation expert, you will find the answers on my site.

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Foundation Wall Crack Repair – Vertical Cracks

Posted on June 27, 2009 by [email protected]

Foundation Wall Crack Repair – Vertical Cracks

By Jacques Bouchard

Vertical cracks in a foundation occur most often due to poor construction practice or when foundation concrete shrinks and cures. These cracks are common in both newly constructed homes and in older ones. While vertical wall cracks in the foundation do not often lead to structural issues as often as horizontal cracks, they commonly leak water from the foundation outside into the basement or crawl space area. In fact, this water flow can be so heavy that some customers call in saying that water was literally squirting into the house!

The unfortunate truth of the matter is that no one wants to buy a home with a leaking foundation wall crack. Certainly, no one wishes to live in a home with foundation water! Damaged or deteriorating foundation walls lead to a great deal of problems for homeowners and their bank accounts. Foundation soil water entering into a basement will cause a home to be difficult (if not impossible) to sell and will cause the home to lose 10% or more of its value. This means that with a $200,000 home, the value will suffer by $20,000! The problem will only worsen with time as more water rushes through the crack and the forces of nature open the crack even wider.

Home Foundation Repair

Do-it-yourself wall crack solutions are not the answer. In many cases, homeowners will attempt to repair the problem simply by adding caulk in the gaps. With a caulk seal, efflorescence will build up as water fills the crack up to the caulking and cause this plug to peel off. Additionally, if the crack isn’t clean, the caulk will bond to the dirt instead of the cement, which will weaken its effectiveness. Of course, the seal will work for a little while, but if you want to fix the problem so your foundation wall never leaks, this isn’t the answer.

Filling a wall crack with hydraulic cement or other rigid substances is also doomed to failure. The problem here is that while the hole is plugged, the problem (foundation water pressing in from the outside) still exists. Over time, as the foundation swells and shrinks with changes in temperature and moisture, the movement will work the plug loose. Foundation leaking will often begin again in about two years.

In cases where epoxy is used, the seal may still hold, but its rigidity will cause the wall to simply crack again nearby as it continues to expand and contract. Additionally, epoxy tends to cure very slowly, and it may actually run out from the other side of the crack before completely hardening. The surface to which the epoxy is added must be completely dry so it may form a proper bond. Alternatively, urethane seals work somewhat better because they’re flexible and expandable, but cracks can easily shift and expand over 100% in time, which is far beyond the ability of this material to stretch.

Dirty Work

Another possible way to repair a leaking foundation wall crack is from the outside. To do this, you’ll have to dig straight down the foundation and uncover the entire wall crack. Hopefully, there’s no sidewalk, bush, garden, front steps, or anything else in the way of the area where the crack is located or they will need to be removed. If there’s a porch, deck, or outside stairs in the way, you’ll have to work around it somehow or remove it as well. Digging out the dirt will leave mounds in your yard and create a mess, and as the dirt is backfilled back in, it will be more porous and water-absorbent than ever. While the multiple layers of synthetic waterproof materials you install will often be effective in solving the problem, if there is ever a failure on the seal, the entire process will have to be repeated. Also, you will have to regrade the soil that was excavated over the next year to prevent it from pooling around the foundation and adding to the problem.

A Foundation Waterproofing Solution that Works EVERY Time

All of the foundation repair solutions above do work- some of the time. If you’re interested in a solution that works every time, however, look to the FlexiSpan wall crack repair solution. The FlexiSpan installation begins by locating a way for potential water to drain outside of the basement- either through a perimeter French drain system or through a small drywell created by the installer. The crack is sealed with a urethane-based sealant (not the same one mentioned earlier – this one can expand to 20 times its original volume!). It bonds well with both wet and dry concrete surfaces, and it’s impenetrable to water. It allows repair without invasive excavation of the yard, and the polyurethane polymer has a low viscosity that allows it to easily fill hairline cracks.

Even in cases where the seal fails, 95% of the water will be prevented from passing through. Any remaining water is intercepted by a foam strip laid over the crack that will direct water down to the drywell. As a finishing touch, the sealed foundation wall crack and foam strip is coated over with material that will make it as invisible as possible and will give it a clean, gray tooled-off look. The drywell is covered over with fresh concrete, and the leak is fixed neatly and forever!

Basement Systems’ basement waterproofing dealers can install this solution all across the United States as well as in Canada and the UK. If you’re interested in a free, no-obligation estimate on this product, call or contact us today!

Jacques Bouchard

Basement Systems

Total Basement Finishing

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Foundation Cracks: Inspection and DIY Diagnoses

Posted on June 27, 2009 by [email protected]

DIY Home Inspection – How to Recognize and Inspect Foundation Problems

By Gary Fuller

The foundation walls are connected to the top of the footings. The purpose of a foundation is to carry the weight of the house structure down through the foundation to the footings.

Whatever their construction, (concrete, brick, concrete blocks, etc.), foundation walls crack because of lateral force, settling, heaving or uneven loads (more weight than designed on a specific section of the foundation), of the foundation walls. Natural forces such as earth quakes can also be a contributor in earthquake regions.

To begin your inspection, use a pad and pencil while observing the exterior foundation. Make notes of cracks and their locations. When inside the lower level, you will want to try to locate them on the inside. If the crack goes entirely through the foundation it may be a red flag. Small hair-line cracks that do not go through the foundation wall are common and nothing to worry about; they may have been caused by shrinkage of the concrete or mortar joints.

A found crack sometimes has a similar type crack on an opposite wall of the foundation. Similar cracks on opposite walls may have the same cause, with the exception of horizontal cracking caused by a lateral force.

Types of Cracking
Vertical and 45 degree cracking is usually caused by settlement and heaving. Horizontal cracking is commonly caused by side pressure on the foundation, such as hydrostatic pressure (a lateral force). Surface cracks that do not go entirely through the wall and with no signs of displacement are not normally a structural defect. Isolated vertical cracks that do not extend to the lower edge of the foundation wall are usually shrinkage cracks. They are caused by the concrete shrinking during curing.

Causes of Horizontal Cracking
The foundation should act as a retaining wall, resisting lateral pressure of the soil on the outside of the basement or crawl space. If the foundation does not provide enough lateral support, the walls will deflect inward and create horizontal cracking. Some of the causes are foundation walls that are too thin or do not have, (or not enough), reinforcement, such as rebar in the concrete foundation, backfilling the foundation too soon before the foundation has a chance to fully cure, or during back filling if big stones or hard frozen chunks of ground were dumped against the foundation.

Causes of Heaving Foundations
Heaving cracks in foundations made out of brick, blocks, or stones,(not concrete), will generally have cracking in the form of a step, called “step cracking”. Step cracking usually follows the mortar joints in these materials.

In concrete foundations, cracks from heaving are usually vertical and are wider at the top of the crack than at the base.

Some areas of the country have expansive soils, which increase in size when they absorb water, causing heaving cracks. Moisture added to dry expansive soils, say from a sudden down pour, will drastically change the volume of the soil and cause serious heaving problems as well as structural damage in some cases. When the expansive soil dries, the shrinkage can also cause a pulling effect on the foundation. The method of prevention is to maintain the soil moisture content, by keeping the soil as dry as possible along the foundation. This can be achieved by proper grading around the perimeter.

Causes of Foundation Settlement
Settling of the soil under the foundation is usually the cause of settlement cracks in the foundation walls. Cracks caused by settling resemble cracks caused by heaving, except the crack is wider at the lower end of the crack.

If a crack is active the crack may still be moving, (getting bigger, etc.) To identify an active crack, it will have sharp edges, clean inside of the crack and sometimes with bits of concrete still in the crack. Old cracks will have dust, dirt, paint and insect parts in the crack.

To determine the severity of a crack or its cause, it may need to be evaluated by a geotechnical engineer. Large cracks 3/8″ wide should be carefully examined. Cracks can be measured by the engineer, to determine if it is moving or if it is stabile. Many times Home Inspectors call on the services of an engineer, to be sure the foundation is sound. As a past Home Inspector, I have been surprised several times to find questionable cracks were sound without a concern. I was always glad it was verified for the sake of the buyer or yourself in your case.

What to look for inside the house structure:

Doors and windows that are stuck and misalignment (gaps)
Foundation settlement can cause doors and windows to be come misaligned. This can be seen when observing the edges around the windows or doors, where they close. Look for gaps larger on one side than the other. This can help determine where the settling is occurring.

Cracks in the walls
Settlement will usually cause wall cracking. Settlement cracks are wider on one end than the other. Let it be known wall cracking can also be caused by the house expanding and contracting through its seasons. If there is no evidence of foundation defects and there is wall cracking, it, more than likely, is caused by the latter.

Sloping or tilting floors.
I have learned during my home inspection career that most people will not notice sloping less than 1/8″ slope per foot. 3/16″slope per foot is noticeable to most people. A family living in an older home for a long time might not notice sloping even if severe. We tend to adjust to gradual sloping over time.

If there is doubt, use a level to determine if the floor is level. Floor elevations should be recorded for future reference in the inspection.

Unless the sloping is substantial or extensive remodeling is planned, the best repair would be to stabilize the foundation. Extensive re-leveling in an older home may cause more than expected damage to the interior walls, ceilings, doors, windows and cabinetry.

If the home has been stabilized and future movement is unlikely, buyers will often accept the uneven floors.

This article was written to act as tool to guide and assist a DIY Inspection on foundations. Gary wrote the BAIR (Building Analysis Inspection Report) System, which is a DIY Inspection that consists of a lot of instructional detail (a guide) written about any of the many components found in the home. The BAIR System has instruction on how to inspect a foundation and explanations on the findings; this article will help with more information, if needed.

Review and download at: http://www.bairsystem.com

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Concrete Foundation Crack Repair: Epoxy Injection

Posted on June 27, 2009 by [email protected]

Repair a Concrete Basement Crack by Epoxy Injection

By Aaron Kuertz

Homeowners love how a concrete basement provides a safe, clean and dry area to store possessions or expand a home’s living space. What they don’t love is how concrete cracks. Cracks in a basement wall can let in water or signify that there is a structural problem with the foundation. Injecting a basement wall crack with epoxy will stop any water leaks and structurally repair the wall.

Epoxy Crack Injection Advantages

• Seals the crack from water
• Epoxies are stronger than concrete
• Structurally repair the concrete

All Concrete Cracks

First, the basics. All concrete basement walls crack. These cracks are due to the concrete shrinking as it cures and the water in the mix is removed. This shrinkage places stress on the concrete and to relieve that stress, the concrete cracks. The cracks will develop soon after the foundation is cast in place. The vast majority of cracks are not a sign of a structural defect with the foundation.

Structural Cracks in Concrete Basement Walls

While it is difficult to determine by looking at a basement wall crack if it is in fact a structural problem, there are a few rules to help guide you. If the crack is over ½” wide there is a chance that it is a structural crack. Horizontal cracks are almost always a structural problem. Cracks that run on a severe diagonal, especially those that start at an inside corner are usually a structural issue. It should be noted that diagonal cracks that start at the corner of a window or where the foundation “steps down” and are under ½” most likely are not a structural issue.

If you are not sure if a crack is structural in nature, an engineer can be hired for a few hundred dollars to determine it for you. The engineer may use a crack stress gauge to help in determining if it is.

Signs of a structural crack
• >1/2″ in width
• The crack is horizontal
• The crack runs on a severe diagonal

How the Concrete Basement Wall Crack is Repaired

The repairs made to a basement wall crack are performed from the inside of the basement. Epoxies are injected into the crack in a liquid form. The epoxies are a two component material that is mixed as they are injected into the crack. After mixing they will cure to form a hard and strong material to reinforce the wall. In fact, the epoxies have a higher compression and tensile strength than the concrete itself. Once the epoxy has cured the crack will not leak water.

How the Epoxy Injection is Performed

Step 1. Attach Surface Ports – Plastic injection ports are attached with a special surface paste directly over the crack. These ports are spaced every six to twelve inches.

Step 2. Seal the Crack Surface – Once the ports are attached, the rest of the crack is covered with the same special surface paste. This is not what makes the crack water proof. It merely keeps the epoxy in the crack as it reacts and hardens.

Step 3. Injecting Epoxy into the Crack – The injection process starts at the lowest surface port. A mixer that attaches to the epoxy cartridge is inserted into the port. The epoxy is in a liquid form and flows into the crack. It will flow all the way to the outside surface of the crack. Once you see the epoxy start to come out of the next port above you stop injecting into the current port and move to the one above. A plug is inserted into the first port to keep the liquid epoxy from leaking out. Proceed until all of the ports have been injected.

Epoxy Cure Time

Epoxies start to cure as soon as the two parts are mixed. They start to reach a semi-rigid gel after about 20-30 minutes. After several hours they will start to become hard. Final cure strengths are usually achieved after seven days.

Limitations
• Not for concrete block walls
• Not for use on floor cracks

This article is written by Aaron Kuertz with Applied Technologies Aaron has been in the waterproofing industry since 1998. Applied Technologies is a manufacturer and supplier to professional waterproofing contractors and homeowners in the United States. To learn more about epoxy concrete crack repair visit Applied Technologies on the web.

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Structural Foundation Cracks

Posted on June 27, 2009 by [email protected]

Repair Foundation Cracks Before They Seriously Damage Your Home

By Matt Gallo

Cracks in your foundation are much more than simply an aesthetic issue. Whether they’ve been caused by hydrostatic pressure, soil setting, or routine shrinkage, these fissures need to be fixed immediately. The longer the breaks persist the more likely it is that your foundation will develop structural damage. Water may also seep (or gush!) into your basement through the crack, creating the possibility of mold growth, water damage, and additional structural problems!

If you have a crack, fissure, break, fracture, crevice, or other void in your foundation, it’s time to repair the damage (and preclude additional injury to your basement, foundation, and house). Depending on the nature and severity of your foundation problems, there are a number of solutions:

* Poured concrete
* Injected epoxy
* Vinyl board
* Crystalline waterproofing agents

One innovative solution is the A-1 Foundation Crack Repair method. This state-of-the-art technique was initially developed from a US Army Corps of Engineers’ dam repair process: holes are drilled into the crack at 45 degree angles along both sides and a closed cell polymer resin is sprayed into the holes. Appropriate for both structural and nonstructural repairs, this process completely seals the crack with a dynamic material able to expand and contract as needed, ensuring a long-lasting repair.

Regardless of which foundation repair method you select, it’s important to keep in mind that each has distinct advantages and disadvantages. Some create more mess than others; some require excavation around your foundation, etc. Also, you’ll want to keep in mind climate issues: if you live in an area with extreme seasonal temperatures, your foundation is constantly expanding and contracting. Any basement repair technique you choose will also need to be dynamic–able to fluctuate along with the foundation. If the material used to mend the foundation crack is not able to expand and contract, the patch won’t hold and you’ll be back where you started!

To learn more about what repair methods are best for your area and your house, contact your local [http://foundation-repair.boston-biz.com/]foundation contractors. They’ll be able to provide information and make expert recommendations regarding the ideal solution for your foundation problems. Don’t forget, you need to fix basement leaks and foundation cracks immediately, so don’t wait. Call your foundation specialist today!

Matt Gallo is a home improvement specialist and the the Internet Marketing Manager for Prospect Genius, a leading provider of [http://www.prospectgenius.com/site/services]online local advertising.

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Mortgage Loans: Slower Financial Closings?

Posted on June 27, 2009 by [email protected]

By Jennifer Hiller – Express-News

Mortgage rates are at an average of 5.5 percent and the federal government continues dangling a free $8,000 in front of first-time buyers — two huge incentives to get people to commit to real estate.

But those seeking a mortgage won’t find rose petals lining the path to their new front door.

Higher lending standards and newly cautious lenders mean that closing on a home is an often a slower, more paperwork-ridden process for home buyers than in recent years.

While many mortgage loans still close in a matter of a few weeks, real estate professionals say it’s not unusual for it to take much longer for buyers to line up financing.

“You can’t get decisions made on the lender’s end,” said James Gaines, research economist with the Real Estate Center at Texas A&M University. “It takes 60 days. It used to take 30 days. If you haven’t crossed every ‘t’ and dotted every ‘i’ on the paperwork, it comes back to you.”

John Flournoy, managing broker with the Phyllis Browning Co., said many San Antonio homes are taking at least 45 days to close from the time the contract is signed. The standard used to be 30 days for home inspections, appraisals and securing financing.

“A lot of lenders and mortgages companies let staff go,” Flournoy said. “They’re reluctant to add a significant number of people.”

For those who have worked in the mortgage industry for a long time, though, the more cautious lending attitude is a back-to-basics approach.

“There’s a lot more paperwork,” said Sean O’Donnell, senior mortgage counselor at Colonial Bank. “It’s just back to 1994 again.”

He tells his clients this: “For every piece of paper you give me, you have to give me three more to prove it.”

Mortgage loans can be closed within a few weeks as long as the person handling the loan is experienced enough to know what’s needed — pay stubs, several months of account statements and so on — in advance, O’Donnell said.

Other factors can slow down a closing, including lender appraisals that may not meet the contract price, scuttling a deal.

“Sometimes a buyer or seller will ask for reconsideration of value,” Flournoy said.

And Bob Gardner, CEO of Legacy Mutual Mortgage, said appraisers sometimes have a hard time finding comparable sales. “The market is stabilizing, and in some areas we’re starting to see price increases,” Gardner said. “If you have new price increases, it’s hard to find comparables to justify the new sale.”

Credit cards, too, are playing an unexpected role in home buying, even for borrowers who have been pre-approved.

Craig Loeffler, loan officer at Affiliated Bank Mortgage, has had clients partially pay down credit cards thinking it best to eliminate debt. Then the credit card company lowers their available limit, which makes it appear the person has been burning through credit. Their credit score drops prior to the closing date, and they no longer qualify for that mortgage.

“You’re worse off than when you started,” Loeffler said. “It’s the most frustrating thing. People can provide a paper trail, but they can’t do anything about this.”

His advice for buyers: wait to pay down a credit card unless your lender requests you do so.

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Building Collapse: Code Violations Lead to Structural Failure?

Posted on June 22, 2009 by [email protected]
By RAY RIVERA and ANDY NEWMAN
Published: June 21, 2009

A four-story residential and commercial building collapsed in a cloud of debris on Sunday in Brooklyn, temporarily trapping a young girl in an adjacent structure but causing no serious injuries, city officials said.

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Michelle V. Agins/The New York Times

A girl next door was temporarily trapped, but no one was badly hurt.

The building, at 493 Myrtle Avenue in Clinton Hill, fell shortly before 2 p.m., leaving a pile of rubble and a wall of scaffolding from work that was being done to repair cracks in the building’s exterior wall, according to city officials and the building’s owner, William Sang.

A bar and lounge called the Vesper on the first floor was closed at the time, and while there were people in the building moments before the collapse, all of the residents of the upstairs apartments were accounted for, officials said. A man in his mid-30s was treated at Brooklyn Hospital Center for bruises on his arm, and three other people refused medical attention, the Fire Department said. The young girl who was temporarily trapped was unharmed, officials said.

Emergency crews continued to search through the debris in the afternoon, while inspectors with the city’s Buildings Department were examining the integrity of buildings on both sides of the fallen structure. The Buildings Department issued vacate orders for six buildings on the block, said Tony Sclafani, a spokesman for the department.

City Councilwoman Letitia James, who represents the district, said a four-story building at 491 Myrtle Avenue, which was attached to the fallen building and suffered significant damage, would have to be demolished.

It is “definitely going to have to be taken down,” Ms. James said.

Fire crews were already on their way to 493 Myrtle Avenue after receiving reports of falling bricks, she said. They arrived seconds before the collapse.

“If any of the men had gone in, it would have been a Father’s Day disaster,” Ms. James said.

About 14 people lived in the two buildings, Mr. Sang and residents said.

The fallen building had several active violations, including one issued May 1 after complaints from tenants of shaking and vibrations, and another for working without a proper permit. An inspector noted at the time vertical cracks running from the ground floor to the roof level. The inspection also found cracks in the interior on the third and fourth floors, according to Buildings Department records.

A hearing on the violation had been scheduled for Monday, but Mr. Sang, the building’s owner, said it had been postponed until later in the summer to give him time to fix the problems.

Mr. Sang, who said he bought the building in 2006, said that the crack had been there for 10 years and that when the Buildings Department inspected it a month ago, “they said there was a crack but that it was O.K. to have tenants.”

Jose Diaz, who lived there for eight years before moving to 491 Myrtle, said, “The whole thing always shook. It always had many cracks in the wall.”

Mr. Diaz’s wife, Carolyn Diaz, said that even in the building next door they could feel the shaking. “I’m just glad it happened when we could get out.”

Anh Nguyen, 28, who lived in the building that collapsed, said that workers had been “mending the crack in the wall for several weeks.” Mr. Nguyen, a Web developer, briefly left his apartment and returned to find the building destroyed. “I’m still in shock,” he said. “It’s not going to hit me that I’ve lost everything right away.”

Next door, at 491 Myrtle, Sheila Nunez and her family were in their fourth-floor apartment when her bedroom wall sheared off. “I told the kids to run,” she said. Her husband, Jose Nunez, said, “You couldn’t see anything. Everything was full of smoke.”

The Nunezes’ daughter, Caitlyn, 10, who had been in the shower, lingered in the ground-floor hall to dress as the rest of the family escaped to the street. Seconds later, tumbling debris blocked the door to 491 with Caitlyn still inside. “My daughter was stuck in the hallway,” Ms. Nunez said. But firefighters shifted the debris, which included an awning for a fish market so that Caitlyn could escape.

Colin Moynihan and Rebecca White contributed reporting.

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